Negril – Day Six (1.27.10)

Sadly, it was our last day in paradise. We spent the morning relaxing by the pool and unfortunately, packing.

Lunch was at Tensing Pen’s restaurant, which as usual, did not disappointment. Husband had the jerk chicken while I had pizza with ackee, which is a fruit native to West Africa but introduced to Jamaica in the 18th century. Now, it is Jamaica’s national fruit.

From our flight back to Chicago, I had a chance to see another beautiful sunset! I hope to be back to Jamaica soon. I was a sucker for its warm and friendly locals, the delicious food and drink, the perfect weather, and most of all, the authentic, laidback and unique Tensing Pen, a hotel that gives its guests a tremendous amount of comfort without upsetting the natural setting. In addition, the absence of TV, internet, work and clocks for a few days proved to be an asset to the mind, body and soul.

Negril – Day Five (1.26.10)

After breakfast, we walked to the Negril Lighthouse, a structure over a hundred years old and located in Jamaica’s most westernmost point. On our way there, we were surprised to see a herd of goats!

Then after a couple of hours relaxing by the pool, we had lunch at Ras Rody’s, an I-tal restaurant across the street from Tensing Pen. I-tal is the diet of Rastafarians, and it means no salt, no chemicals, no meat, and no dairy! Despite the absence of those items, our pumpkin soup, rice and beans, callaloo, and breadkinds (i.e., starchy vegetable) were delicious and filling. While there, Ras Rody told us about his new website. We checked it out when we got home and was so surprised to read this: In December 2009, Travel Channel TV host Samantha Brown visited Rody to tape a segment about Ital foods. The show is expected to air sometime in 2010. I can’t believe she was there just a month before our trip. I think I would have fainted if I were to see her in person because I am her biggest fan.

After lunch, we spent a few hours by the pool and in our room just chillaxin’.

Once again, we watched the breathtaking sunset with Red Strips (for husband) and delightful pina coladas for me (Tensing Pen’s bartender, Razor, makes the best ones, in my opinion!).

We then had dinner was at Xtabi, which provided the only disappointing dining experience for me in Jamaica. My husband’s grilled lobster was wonderful, but my curried conch was less than flavorful. Besides my bland conch, the service was slow and surly.

Negril – Day Four (1.25.10)

Today, we had a tour with a company called Chukka Caribbean. From all the activities they offer, we chose a 7-hour tour that took us through Jamaica’s rugged interior via a 4X4 and allowed us a glimpse into the real Jamaica. The highlight was a stop at a former slave hospital converted into a church in 1846 (St. Mary’s Anglican Church).

The most amusing event of the day: on our way back to our hotels, we had a tire blow-out! Fortunately, our driver safely maneuvered the vehicle to the side of the highway and we were picked up within 10 minutes by another Chukka vehicle/employee. During this minor incident, I saw how kind Jamaicans can be. A few drivers slowed down and asked if we needed help. We didn't because our driver had already called for assistance. We agreed with a Canadian couple on the tour with us that if this situation were to happen at home, it was highly unlikely that there would be anyone offering their help. Sad but true.

And oh, for lunch, they took us to a restaurant that I think the tour company owns, where I had a delicious chicken patty, a pastry that contains various fillings and spices baked inside a flaky shell (like an empanada) and Ting, a Jamaican soft drink which is a more sugary version of Squirt.

We got back in time to Tensing Pen to watch another magnificent sunset (while drinking some cocktails).

Dinner was at Pushcart, a nearby restaurant. It was the perfect dining experience—fantastic live reggae music from a local band, friendly and effective service, and delectable food and drink: Red Stripes for husband, pina coladas for me, jerk chicken skewers as a starter, curried conch (Husband’s entrée) and shrimp with Scotch bonnet pepper (very spicy!) with yummy johnny cakes (fried dumplings) as mine.

Negril – Day Three (1.24.10)

After the usual breakfast of French toast, omelet, fresh fruit and lots of coffee, we took a stroll down West End Road (also called the Cliff Road, the Lighthouse Road or the One Love Road depending who you ask, but there's only one road).

Lunch was at Alice’s, a restaurant across the street from Tensing Pen. It was a great meal of grilled lobster (for me) and curried goat (for Husband).

Afternoon was spent relaxing by the sea and reading.

Before dinner, we watched the beautiful sunset.

Dinner was at Jimmy Buffett’s Margaritaville. Why? Because of the NFC championship game between the Saints and the Vikings that Husband had to watch. The food and service were surprisingly great. The overzealous Vikings fans did annoy me a little though.

Unfortunately, Margaritaville was our only trip to Seven Mile Beach, and it was at night, so I did not see much. Central Negril is divided into two distinct areas: Seven Mile Beach and West End, where we stayed. Seven Mile Beach is supposedly a long, beautiful stretch of public beachfront with scores of bars and restaurants. All buildings must be shorter than palm trees per local ordinance. Hopefully, I will return to Negril one day to further explore this area.

Negril – Day Two (1.23.10)

The day started with breakfast at Tensing Pen’s restaurant, where items such as fruit, fresh juice, coffee, bread and jam are included in the room rate. Additional items like omelets, bacon, and French toast are available for order (for $3 to $4). Everyday, I had the delicious banana French toast.

After breakfast, we walked around the the hotel, which is situated on its own secluded and pristine cove. Tensing Pen faces the ocean. But as with other resorts in Negril's West End, it does not have a traditional sandy beach.

Guests can climb down the cliffs and swim from a handful of ladders built into the cliffs. Those that are brave can jump off the skinny, 20-foot wooden bridge over the hotel’s cove.

A pool is set below the restaurant and overlooks a view of the ocean.

The crystal-clear, snorkel-perfect water provides an environment for open water swimming.

Both the pool and cliffs are unsupervised. Signs are posted in a few places warning guests to swim at their own risk.

Yoga classes are held in the open-air studio every Tuesday and Thursday morning at 11 AM (for a fee).

A gift shop is located near the lobby (where free Wi-Fi is available).

There is also a spa hut. Spa services, skin treatments and massages can be arranged through the front desk.

The hotel owns the most beautiful Rhodesian Ridgeback dogs that were so calm and friendly. One was named Tensing and the other Sugar.

The restaurant has an open floor plan and views of the pool and sea. It serves mostly Jamaican food and its service was consistently pleasant. 

Though it feels private and secluded, guests are a few steps away from a handful of great restaurants, bars, and food stalls along West End Road. Additionally, it is just a short walk or cab ride away from must-see attractions like Rick's Café (a Negril icon since 1974), Negril Lighthouse, and Seven Mile Beach.

Cottages are spread out over the large property, and all are unique. Several types of bungalows, rooms, and studios are available, so the room and furniture configurations differ widely. Some of the thatched cottages are “pillar houses,” which is an architectural style associated with the West End.

For lunch that day, we walked to Rockhouse where we had the conch fritters as a starter and jerk chicken sandwich (for husband) and lobster wrap (for me) as our entrées. The food was delicious and the service was perfection. Best of all, the view from the restaurant was beyond amazing.

Post-lunch, we relaxed by the pool and did lots of reading.

We chose to have dinner at the hotel restaurant. It was another satisfying meal—polenta with mushrooms as a starter and escoveitch pork and curried shrimp as entrees.

Negril – Day One (1.22.10)

It was not easy to wake up at 4 AM for our 6:30 AM flight. But we were going to Jamaica after all, so I took it like a champ!



We arrived at Montego Bay’s Sangster International Airport just 3 hours later and after immigration and customs, we immediately made the 1.5 hour-drive to Negril. Our driver, Carlton from Reggae Tours offered a wealth of knowledge about Jamaica and pointed out important sights during the drive. The highlight for me was driving through Lucea, a bustling city between Montego Bay and Negril, where you can watch the locals go about their day.



Our accommodations for the next 6 days is Tensing Pen, which is a 22-room (divided among 17 cottages) hotel set in the rugged but beautiful cliffs of Negril's West End. It opened in the 1970s as a tiny hippie hangout. Now, Tensing Pen is where people come to unplug--no TVs, phones, internet or radios in the rooms.

Upon arrival at Tensing Pen, we were greeted with a refreshing complimentary drink.



Then we had lunch at Tensing Pen’s superb open-air restaurant. I had the callaloo fritters. It was the first time I had callaloo, a spinach-like vegetable used throughout the Caribbean. Husband had escoveitched fish wrap. Escoveitched fish is a traditional Jamaican dish introduced by the Spanish settlers in the early 16th century. Whole or sliced fish is fried and then covered with a spicy marinade (which acts as a natural preservative). It was a convenient dish in the days before electricity as it could be left for over a day without refrigeration.



After lunch, a hotel staff took us to our room, the Garden Studio.

We unpacked and because we were exhausted, we spent the late afternoon taking a nap. We woke up just in time for dinner. After consulting our Lonely Planet guidebook, we decided to go to LTU Pub for dinner. LTU Pub is a small restaurant just a short walk from Tensing Pen and provides an awe-inspiring cliff-face setting. We had the crab balls and pumpkin soup as starters and Husband had jerk chicken while I had the seafood pasta for our entrée. Both were delicious and the service was superb. So far, the trip was exactly what we hoped for.